If you think the alphabet is straightforward, Japan's Irohazaka Road in Nikko will twist that belief right out of you. Named after the old Japanese syllabary 'Iroha', this mountain pass once had 48 hairpin bends—each curve matched to a character of the alphabet. Today, it's a pair of separate one-way roads—one goes up, the other comes down and both make drivers feel as if they're spelling out a story with every turn.

This time of the year is when Irohazaka truly shows off. From late October to early November, maple reds, ginkgo golds and larch yellows spill down the slopes. The winding route also leads to some of Nikko's greatest hits. Climb up and you'll reach the Akechidaira Plateau. Here, a ropeway gives you sweeping views of Lake Chuzenji and the powerful Kegon Falls. At the top, Lake Chuzenji offers a calm contrast to the dizzying drive, while the waterfall roars below. Centuries ago, pilgrims took this same route to reach sacred shrines and temples. Today, travellers follow in their tracks, though probably with more camera clicks than chants.